Unremarkable Mendoza, and Minimally Interesting Salta

The Bus from Bariloche:

I arrived in the bus station and once again ran into my talkative Korean friend Kim. Honestly, I really wasn't in the mood to humor him, and hoped that we weren't taking the same bus. Luckily, he headed west and I turned north to Mendoza. I met an amazing girl on the way there, an adventure tourism guide from Quebec who tipped me off about San Pedro de Atacama.

Mendoza, Not the Place for Me:

Although hanging out with her in Mendoza was fun, I was happy to leave after one night, and one disappointing wine and bike tour. I ended up hanging out with a Spaniard wine connoisseur that drove me nuts the whole wine tour. He was the wealthy elitist type and stuck to me like glue simply because he didn't want to go to the wineries alone. The wine country felt like the California central valley, which didn't interest me at all. The trip was moderately painful, but I won't dwell on it. I drank and enjoyed a couple vintage malbecs, and was happy with just that. I was very glad to get on the bus to Salta.

Salta, don't Be Fooled by the Name:

An incredible mountainous jungle surrounds Salta, a city that has become a popular hub for travelers heading into northern Chile and Bolivia. I had gone expecting desert scenery, and was pleasantly surprised by the beauty that surrounded the city.

Most of the activities here, like Mendoza cost an arm and a leg... so I just stuck to camping and trekking. It was a good place to collect myself and get a little rest and relaxation, although the city itself was rather busy. There was a nice park, and a beautiful trek up to the top of a mountain next to the city. There was a tram that takes lazy people to the top as well, but I couldn't imagine paying to miss out on a great walk up a winding 1,000 step stairway through in the middle of the jungle. When I approached the top, I was disappointed to see a touristy and unnatural lawn and resort. They had a fake waterfall with disgusting recycled water, and a fancy cafe for the wealthy tourists. I took a few pictures of the city from that trap, and went back down to the city VIA the staircase.

Unfortunately there was little else to do in Salta without forking over some serious cash, so I left it behind after 3 nights. It took about that long for my body to get used to the altitude anyway. From there I bussed to San Pedro de Atacama.

All the bus rides I've taken were beautiful and interesting, but this one in particular was truly incredible. After watching the jungles melt into desert, we drove across a small salt flat. It looks like water in the photograph, but you can tell from up close that it's just a giant field of glistening and dry salt. I have never seen anything else like it, and it's made me very excited about the trip I'm going to make into Uyuni, Bolivia.

The scenery was fantastic, and despite a slightly disappointing entry into San Pedro, I've found the Atacama incredibly diverse and fantastic.

Last Full Day in Bariloche

Cerro Catedral

The next day I met back up with the Brits and a seventh person, Jesse. We had intended to head out to the town of Catedral at 11AM via bus, but were delayed by a futbol game. After the Brits got their fill and saw their local team (Manchester City) lose, we caught the bus at 1PM. I was a little peeved by the delay, but I'll admit that things might not have been quite as amazing if we had started our trek at a more reasonable hour.

The trek started easily and it seemed that we would certainly make it to the summit very quickly. That all changed very abruptly, as I received yet another reminder of the burdens that come from traveling in a group. We took constant breaks before we needed them, and were always waiting for whoever was dragging behind. To be fair, as a group everyone was relatively strong, but we only had about 5 hours of daylight to do an estimated 6 hour hike.

When we got farther up the peak, the scenery became incredibly beautiful, almost dreamlike. The camera can't quite capture the diagonal rays splitting through the canopy of the old-growth forest, but the whole area emitted a distinctly pure vibe. We naturally spread out beyond each others' area of vision, and it felt like walking peacefully alone through paradise.

When we met up toward the end of the forest that we realized how far behind some of our group had fallen. We ended up waiting half an hour for Jesse, who had some physical troubles and had to stop a few times on the way. He decided to stay behind in the forest as we headed up toward the summit. Time was short and the path was really steep, but we covered the estimated 2 hour climb in just over an hour. The forest scenery dissipated completely to reveal great varieties of spires and jagged peaks, and everyone suddenly felt the physical toll of the hike. I was the only one that had packed food, and ended up sharing it with the rest of the group, some of whom appeared to be feeling extremely weak.

I had lugged that food all the way up the hill, and losing the extra weight vitalized me as much as eating did. Being the prepared type, I ended up sharing much more of my food and water than I kept for myself. Despite the hunger, I'm always happy to help anyone, so naturally I pretended have had my fill and urged them to eat and drink freely.

We then tackled the last 2 kilometers with a "get it over with" mentality and pushed through the exhaustion. A beautiful spring sat at the top, nestled among a tight ring of jagged peaks. We took a little break and checked out "Refugio Frey," a base camp for truly daring climbers who came to attempt to scale the vertical cliff faces surrounding the spring. They looked truly insane dangling on the edge of oblivion and it certainly took the greater part of a day for them to complete their short but nigh impossible climbs. We were happy to live vicariously through the pictures of the peaks. We also brought Jesse up to the top through an impromptu superimposition.

We rushed down doing a great deal of fun and exciting "fall-running" (using momentum from downhill stretches to propel yourself farther, faster, and with less energy). We met back up with Jesse who ended up napping in the forest where we left him and continued down the hill reunited.

The second time I "saved" one of the Manchester group was when Michael built up too much momentum and lost control while running down a slope. I pretty much just stood below with my arms out, feet braced and fingers crossed. He was easy to stop. I think it was because he was tall and his center of gravity was really high and separated from his feet. He was just happy to not have crashed into the mountain wall.

We reached the bottom just before sunset, but had to wait almost 2 hours for the bus to come take us back. It was cold, and I looked ridiculous running around town trying to find someone that knew the bus schedule.

I pretty much went straight to bed after all that. I left Bariloche the next day.

More of Bariloche

Cerro Campanario

Today the rest of the group wanted to take it easy and sleep in, but by some miracle, I wasn't tired or sore at all. I decided to do a short hike up to Cerro Campanario, one of the top 10 views in the world according to National Geographic. I agree that the panorama of lakes and mountains was very impressive... but I'm more of an intimate scenery type. I was more affected by the unique views we enjoyed on the bike ride. I can't complain too much, since I skipped the gondola and hiked up to the summit for a total cost of $0.

A nice German woman took the picture above for me, and I took a few more photos before heading back down. On the way I noticed a path that headed around parallel to the mountain.... obviously it had to be explored. It turned out to be an infrequently trodden horse trail that I assumed followed the mountain range along the lake. It winded through bamboo forests and occasionally cleared up for a view of the lakes. About 45 minutes later, I discovered that it didn't follow the mountain range. I had just circled the mountain, and I found myself back where I started, perfectly oriented and generally disappointed.

The rest of the day was just relaxing and kicking back in the hostel.